Perfume's Dark Secret: Why 'Fragrance' Prioritises Trade Secrets Over Your Health.

The Personal Challenge of Synthetic Scents

I don’t know how to say this nicely, but I have been told by my mother, of all people, on numerous occasions that I smell bad and if she is really in a mood, that I stink. I know this makes it sound like I’ve given up on soap and water (I haven’t!), but let me explain how this all happened. In fact, since AYA Balm hit the ground and we grew into AYA Natural Skin, I have spent more effort and energy exploring truly natural soaps, scents and smells than I ever have before. It really didn’t start with me; it started when I met my husband. Richard intensely dislikes the “smell” of perfumes and deodorants. Since I really fancied Richard more than quite a bit, perfumes and deodorants became a thing of the past and embracing my own smell became a new reality.

To be fair to my lovely husband, this isn't the first time I've become aware that scents are an issue for me. The first time, I was on a much-awaited and longed-for holiday in Italy, and it went horribly wrong, as only these things can. I decided to cheer myself up and go for a swim at the beach. Firstly, the entrance to this particular area where I was wasn't free, unlike in our beautiful country. Secondly, the overwhelming smell of artificial scents and fragrances pushed me over the edge. Needless to say, it didn't save the holiday!

Anyway, to get to the point, once I officially started, it wasn’t a slippery slope; it was a helter-skelter to the end point of banning all synthetic smells or fragrances in my vicinity. I just can’t abide them anymore, and I often feel nauseated fast when I encounter them.

I have had to learn to relax as my kids have become teenagers, with their own wills and requirements. But they know hugs are off-limits if they have just put on a synthetic scent, and that all windows must be open at all times when applying.

I get it, this sounds extreme, but to be clear, I have not touched a synthetic fragrance since 2008 for very good reasons. I have never been a middle-of-the-road kind of person. The reality is that everything about us and on this planet is here for a reason. Creating unhealthy, unrealistic and at times dangerous smells to hide smells is not a good idea and can quite possibly make us ill.

The Regulatory Matrix & The Fragrance Loophole

I spent a lot of time trying to work out why I had such an extreme reaction, extreme even for my standards. I found that the most apt scenario for this whole set-up was: in the words of Neo (the real-life fabulous Keanu Reeves), it's time to step out of the matrix. And the architect of this particular matrix? It all started with a single piece of legislation from the USA. Created with what some consider well-meaning intentions, it actually allowed a very big, scary loophole for us as consumers.

To understand the loophole clearly, we need to define exactly what we are talking about: what is perfume? As a self-proclaimed word nerd, I went straight to the dictionary. It paints a romantic picture, defining perfume as a substance made from "flower or spice oils" to create a "natural, agreeable odour." Did you catch the keyword there?" Because once again, there is nothing natural about it!

The word itself, perfume, comes from the ancient practice of burning natural resins, wood, and herbs. For thousands of years, perfume meant extracting scents directly from nature. However, what we think perfume is today is very far from reality. We tend to cling to this romanticised version as skilful marketers cash in on the idea of perfume with beautifully “natural” images of dewy roses and vanilla pods.

Parfum, or fragrance, is in fact very much a “wonder” of organic chemistry, and not a direct extract of flowers and spices. The entire modern perfume industry was redirected entirely in 1882. This occurred with the commercial adoption of the synthetic coumarin molecule, first synthesised by William Henry Perkin in 1868. Perfumer Paul Parquet (for the House of Houbigant) used it as a central component in his fragrance Fougère Royale, a contribution widely considered the birth of modern synthetic perfumery. This monumental shift allowed the industry to move toward lab-created molecules. These synthesised molecules were not only significantly cheaper and easier to produce in massive quantities but also offered more stability and consistency than natural oils could ever achieve.

The Regulatory Black Hole

And here is where we have to step out of the matrix. That clear glass bottle, or carefully designed container, looking so beautiful against a wholly natural background, is governed by a law that prioritises "trade secrets" over your health.

The legislation responsible for all this transparency is the Fair Packaging and Labelling Act of 1966. While it was likely created with the best of intentions to promote transparency, it carved out a massive exemption for the perfume industry to protect its "trade secrets" from competitors. In South African terms, this loophole is as big as the Big Hole in Kimberley. It allows manufacturers to blend over 3,000 different stock chemicals—including known endocrine disruptors—and legally hide them all behind one single, innocent-looking word on the label: Fragrance (or Parfum).

But why does a US law from 1966 dictate what happens to us

globally? That happened quite seamlessly in 1973. A trade association in Washington, representing the interests of the skin and beauty industries, created a global management system called INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients). They designed a labelling system that works perfectly for international trade and creates a seamless global market. This made it so much easier for the same bottle of shampoo to be sold in New York or Johannesburg, or anywhere else in the world. However, it also exported that "Kimberley Hole" sized loophole to the rest of the world.

Just so there is complete clarity: INCI is still run by that same trade association in Washington. It is managed by a committee composed of scientists from the world's largest beauty corporations. What this means is that the people deciding how transparent your skincare ingredients need to be are funded by, and work for, the very same people who need to be held accountable. How do we feel about INCI now? In my last blog post, where I went into the invisible plastic in our skincare, I talked about how to verify which ingredients are actually present. But is it the best source of verification after this bit of juicy information? That's where our own journey with natural skin care and our exploration of our unique skin and the values that align with us all come into play. 

Global Divide: EU vs. US vs. South Africa

While I am always ready to engage in conspiracy theories or listen to fear-mongering newscasts, I absolutely insist on verifying the facts as much as I can. And I get it, all of the above sounds alarmist to say the least. My family is always quick to point this out to me. The reality is that there is a massive divide in how governmental organisations go about protecting, or for that matter not protecting, their citizens from the chemical cocktails that are synthetic fragrances and perfumes. Here are some real numbers to look at. In the European Union (EU), regulatory bodies take a ‘safety first’ approach, and as such, there are well over 1300 toxic ingredients that have been banned or restricted in beauty, skincare, and personal care products. In the United States (US), the creator of this system, as we know it, there are only 11 or 12 toxic ingredients banned.

Here in South Africa, it is a case of good news and bad news. As I am unbelievably the eternal optimist, let's go with the good news first. South Africa has modelled itself on the EU Standards. With the FCD Act (Foodstuffs, Cosmetics and Disinfectants Act, 1972) and SAHPRA (South African Health Products Regulatory Authority) having aligned its cosmetic framework with stringent EU Standards. South Africa has banned a significant number of toxic ingredients and chemicals in skincare products. This list contains over 2000 ingredients and toxic components in over-the-counter products. This means that we have much more consumer protection than our US counterparts. However, the bad news is that even with our strong regulations, there are many illegal products, mostly skin-lightening creams, containing banned ingredients, still available for purchase in South Africa.

The Natural Skincare Solution: Stepping Out of the Matrix

I love this idea; it just appeals to the dramatic in me. We are living in a state of cognitive dissonance: when it comes to beautiful scents, we are led to believe we are buying nature, but we are in fact just buying science. The bottom line is that it all boils down to what we want for ourselves and how we use our purchasing power to

get it. Reading labels has never been more critical, and choosing a brand that aligns with your values is essential. At AYA Natural Skin, our commitment to transparent, natural ingredients means we only use essential oils that offer both scent and therapeutic value. That commitment is why AYA Balm—our multi-tasking hero—has been your go-to since the beginning. It represents a promise that you will never have to choose between smelling good and feeling well. By choosing a natural skincare range, like AYA Natural Skin, you are taking a step towards a world where your well-being, your health, and your values always come first.