How CI Codes Hide in Your 'Natural' Skincare - and What to Do About It
Okay, I am freaking out, literally, physically and emotionally. My dog, Goldie, my alter ego psycho who never knows how to behave nicely, just made a bright green dog poo. I kid you not, we are not talking about a mellow, easy-flowing field green; we are talking green lumo, like the kind on a stereotypical 80’s punk. We were out for our daily walk, and this happened. I had to sit on a bench for a whole moment to process this and realise what had just happened. Then I remembered a whole lot of dog treats I had bought that definitely weren't of the natural variety, and the light bulb went on.
As soon as I got home, I passed the treats on to friends who don't share my obsession with reading labels and INCI transparency in food and natural skincare, with a stern warning of imminent danger that too many treats hold.
At dinner, I sat down to describe this unimaginable horror, only to be reminded by my kids of one time when I had relaxed from being the ultra-hyper-vigilant mom and had let them have some hectic milk drink with wild food colouring. What can I say? There was a lot of pressure to relax and be the easygoing mom. When my son's poo was bright blue, I only had myself to blame and stopped myself from rushing him to the doctor to ask if any damage was done. We used to laugh about this a lot, but not so much when the kids asked for some weird foodstuff that had never been grown, cultivated, or harvested. We are talking pure synthetic chemical creation - the kind of greenwashing in skincare and food that hides in plain sight, dressed up in colours your brain is wired to trust.
The Hidden Language of Skincare Labels: What CI Codes Actually Mean
Just to be clear, when you spend time looking at the ingredient list, look out for letters “CI”(Colour Index) number, which is the code used for synthetic dyes. The CI codes are usually found at the bottom of standard labels. In skincare labelling, ingredients are always listed from highest to lowest concentration. This means these synthetic dyes are used only in microscopic amounts. Because they are so lightweight, they are listed at the very end.
Something to think about in skincare labelling: if an ingredient is listed after the preservative, it is usually present at less than 1%, which means it offers no functional benefit to your skin. They aren't there to heal, hydrate, or protect; they are there to trick your brain into thinking that the product is more aesthetically appealing. And as I've written before, the word 'natural' on a label means absolutely nothing legally [the beauty industry is far less regulated than you think]. Kind of like ‘eye candy’: not very useful and, in all likelihood, damaging. Think ‘sugar crash’ but for the skin, which means increased sensitivity or irritation.
The 1% Rule: Why 'Tiny' Doesn't Mean Harmless
Here is where it gets tricky: by placing them at the bottom, it's just a simple fact that they often go unnoticed. If they do get noticed, the argument is that such a small concentration is nothing to worry about. This is just not the case; the compounded effect is very real in skincare. Well, we all know we never use one product in isolation. What about the ten-million-step beauty routine those vapid influencers are constantly pushing on us? There is your compound effect of that small, insignificant concentration of synthetic dyes!
The Cumulative Effect: Why Your 10-Step Routine Multiplies the Problem
Since the rise of unfortunately relevant influences, we’ve been conditioned to believe that "more is more" when it comes to our skin. Social media feeds are saturated with influencers performing elaborate 10-step rituals that look more like lab-induced chemistry experiments than a naturally loving self-care routine. And here it is: compound effect. When every "aesthetic" product in that lineup contains a tiny, "insignificant" amount of synthetic colourant, the numbers grow exponentially.
Let’s walk through a typical morning. You start with a "fresh" green tea cleanser (CI 19140 and CI 42090), follow it up with a "soothing" lavender-tinted toner (CI 60730), pat on a "brightening" pink vitamin C serum (CI 17200), and lock it all in with a "cooling" blue gel moisturiser (CI 42090). By the time you apply your SPF and perhaps a tinted primer, your skin isn't just hydrated, it is marinating in a cocktail of five or six different synthetic dyes.
By 8:00 AM, that "less than 1%" argument has effectively evaporated. This is the compound effect in action. While a single drop of dye might not trigger an immediate reaction, the cumulative weight of these non-functional chemicals creates a constant low-grade stress on our skin barrier. Influencer culture pushes the "glow," but they rarely mention the cumulative irritation, sensitivity, and long-term barrier disruption caused by the very dyes used to make those products look "Instagrammable." The result is cumulative chemical exposure that manifests as increased skin sensitivity, often blamed on ageing or diet, rarely traced back to the products in a million-step beauty routine.
Greenwashing in Skincare: How Colour Hijacks Your Brain
Ultimately, it's all about playing with our senses, whether it's smell or sight. By using a minuscule amount of colour, our brain is tuned to a specific experience, and a psychological trigger follows. This is what misleading skincare claims actually look like in practice - not outright lies, but carefully engineered sensory illusions. It's the ultimate smoke and mirrors - sensory illusions dressed up as ingredient integrity.
The Lavender Illusion: When Scent and Colour Create a Fiction
Synthetic fragrance is its own rabbit hole, one I've gone deep on before, but here's where scent and colour work together to complete the illusion.
When a product already has a synthetic lavender scent, all a company needs to add is a tiny drop of CI60730 (violet), and we, as mere mortals, end up with a beautiful, luminous purple tinge and a striking, plant-like green-lavender sensory experience.
And this isn't limited to synthetic products, obviously. Even when a brand says they are 'clean' or all about simplicity, or even better, all about protecting the skin barrier using vegan, cruelty-free ingredients, just take a look at the CI codes, and you might be in for a not-so-welcome surprise.
The Cucumber Con: Why That Green Gel Has No Botanical Soul
We've all seen that "cool-as-a-cucumber" green gel that promises garden-fresh purity. It looks crisp, botanical, and healthy, but unfortunately, it's more often than not a clever chemical construction. And to be clear, there is something very magical about chemistry, even though I'm quite sure chemists wouldn't describe it like that. We all know about good wizards and bad wizards, don't we?
To achieve that sensory aesthetic, many brands bypass actual plant extracts, which can be unstable or colourless. They simply blend CI 19140 (Yellow 5) and CI 42090 (Blue 1) to create the illusion of an actual vibrant cucumber.
The reality? The cucumber isn't there. The "freshness" is a psychological trick designed to prime your brain before the product even touches your skin. You aren't paying for the soothing properties of Cucumis sativus; you're paying for a liquid illusion. When you strip away the synthetic dye, you're often left with a product that has no botanical soul but is just a clever chemical concoction - but more bad wizard than good.
The Titanium Dioxide Question: When 'Permitted' Isn't the Same as 'Safe'
If the label or marketing blurbs list the ingredients as 'natural' minerals, like Mica or Titanium Dioxide, maybe have a position in hand on whether these are ingredients you want to use or not.
When you scan an ingredient list and spot Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), you're looking at a mineral that has recently faced intense scrutiny. While it remains a common white pigment in the beauty world, it has officially been banned in the EU as a food additive due to serious concerns about its potential to damage DNA when ingested. In the skincare realm, the EU hasn't issued a blanket ban; it's still permitted in creams and sunscreens, but its safety is strictly regulated, especially in loose powders, where inhalation is a risk.
At AYA Natural Skin, the fact that it's deemed unsafe for the dinner table is enough for us to question its place on your face. We choose to avoid it not just because of the surrounding health debates, but because it's a functional filler used to create an artificial, pearly-white finish. We believe your skincare should be the most natural, authentic, gentle and supportive ritual, and that is where a truly natural, healthy glow will come from.
What AYA Does Instead: Real Ingredients, No CI Codes, No Illusions
At AYA Natural Skin, the thought of any kind of purely synthetic chemical is a big challenge on a good day, but to make the choice to use such an ingredient to create the colour that works for marketing and selling a product is just insane.
When you open a jar of AYA Balm, our raw fermented papaya balm, the rich, sun-kissed hue you see isn't the result of a laboratory Colour Index cocktail. It is the honest, unedited reflection of the potent botanicals working inside.
Our signature golden glow comes directly from nature's true magic: raw fermented papaya, pure beeswax, and a synergy of cold-pressed plant oils, each chosen for their biological compatibility with your skin. This is an enzymatic healing balm where every molecule serves a purpose. The papaya provides natural exfoliation and repair, the beeswax creates a breathable protective barrier, and the oils deliver deep fatty-acid nourishment.
As a proud South African natural skincare brand, we prioritise transparency - we don't need a drop of Yellow 5 to convince you our ingredients are active; the results on your skin speak much louder than anything else. At AYA Natural Skin, what you see is exactly what you get: pure, functional, and unadulterated skin food. One tin, no fillers, twenty uses.
Even brands that call themselves 'clean' often can't resist the urge to add a little 'shimmer' or 'tint' to their bottles. They use Mica for fake glow and CI 77491 for colour. But at AYA, we believe that if your skin is truly healthy, it finds its own natural glow. We don't need to add ground-up minerals or pigments to a jar to make you look radiant - we let the plants do the heavy lifting.
How to Audit Your Skincare: A 5-Step CI Code Check
So here goes. Here's how to audit your skincare labels - no chemistry degree required. Take a deep breath, sit down with your products, and follow these five steps:
- Find your preservative. Skincare needs good preservative systems - they're usually capped at 1%. Read them and decide how you feel. Common ones to avoid in natural skincare: Tetrasodium EDTA, Ethylhexylglycerin, and Benzethonium Chloride.
- Inspect the "Less Than 1%" area: Look at every ingredient listed after the preservative. If it's at the end of the list, it's present in a microscopic amount, often too low to provide any real skin benefit.
- Hunt for the "CI" Codes: Search for the letters "CI" followed by a five-digit number (e.g., CI 19140 or CI 42090). These are your synthetic dyes. They are almost always tucked away at the very bottom.
- For every ingredient, ask: What is its Function? If you find a CI code, ask yourself: Does this heal, hydrate, or protect my skin?
- The "Invisible" Test: Imagine the product without that dye. Would a "cucumber" gel still look green? Would a "lavender" cream still be purple? If the colour vanishes without the synthetic additive, the "natural" experience you're paying for isn't real, it's just a clever chemical illusion.
Note: In skincare not purporting to be natural, the list of concerning preservatives is far more extensive. We recommend a Google search of any ingredient name alongside "skin safety" or "EWG rating" to give you a quick, reliable starting point.
Auditing our skincare products is where the power of us as consumers comes into play. We get to choose what we put on our skin; that is the beginning and end of it.
Still Think 'Tiny Amounts' Don't Matter? Think about This.
Some people tell me I'm being hysterical because those CI dyes are at the very bottom of the list. 'It's such a small amount, it's harmless,' they say. But I look at it like this: if I told you there was only a tiny amount of something unnecessary in your coffee, something that added no flavour, no benefit, and no value, would you still want it there? At AYA, we believe that if an ingredient isn't actively healing, protecting, or nourishing your skin, it's just taking up space. And we simply don't have room for pretty fillers.
As I am sure you are all aware by now, at AYA Natural Skin, the thought of any purely synthetic chemical is a big challenge on a good day. But to make the choice to use such an ingredient purely to create a colour that works for marketing and selling a product — that's where we draw the line. Many brands disagree with this; for them, enhancing a product's colour to make it more appealing just makes good marketing sense. Of course, I choose to challenge this in its entirety.
Your skin is a living, breathing organ, not a canvas for "eye candy" or carefully engineered sensory illusions. Whether it's lumo-green dog treats or blue-milk dyes, we have to stop falling for the psychological tricks of synthetic reality. Let's just stick with nature and the good wizards that abound.
Next time you pick up a product, flip it over. The ingredient list tells you everything you need to know.
If you'd like to see exactly what goes into AYA Balm — every ingredient, every purpose, no CI codes, no fillers — you can find us right here. One tin. Nothing hidden.