Skin Absorption vs Penetration: How Deep Should Your Skincare Go?
How deep should your skincare products go, or how deep do you actually want them to go?
Living in a small town has many perks, but, like everything, it also has its drawbacks. That's why I always say pick your poison; nothing is ever perfect. One drawback is that when I need to go on a bigger shopping trip, I have to travel to George. Although it's not a metropolis, it's always an adventure and, at the same time, a mission. One of the perks of shopping at a larger centre is that I get to see what's happening in the skincare industry and how brands are positioning themselves, which, considering my chosen career, fascinates me. On my last trip to George, I read a brand slogan: 'Our product works in, not on the skin!' – one of those giant promotional banners displayed loudly and proudly behind their skincare range. For the first few seconds, I was intrigued, because this is a question I have grappled with for many hours. However, the more I sat with it, the more I considered its implications, so I decided to explore this topic and see where it led.
Why This Question Matters to Me
Yes, I was a pimply teenager, with definite periods of bad acne, and this evolved into bouts of seriously bad skin which didn't fully resolve till my early thirties. I am a big believer that our environment, with all its various aspects, and what we put in and on our bodies, play a pivotal part in how we look, how we feel, and our overall sense of well-being. And why I am such a firm believer is part of my own life story, so buckle up and prepare yourself for a tangent.
When I was firmly entrenched in the shipping industry, a heinous time, I was a pack-a-day smoker, a Diet Coke fiend, not a joyous social drinker but instead dipping into a scarier side at times, two to three cappuccinos and copious amounts of aspirin to cope with the throbbing headache my lifestyle was creating. Needless to say, my skin was far from happy, and it showed. One comment I remember, repeated to me ever so kindly by a colleague, came from a male colleague I intensely disliked (the feeling was entirely mutual). He said, with apparent great glee, that I was ageing very badly. It wasn't the wake-up call I needed, but it stuck. While the thought of seeing this person fills me with horror, I do like the thought of "if only you could see me now……" But I try to be the bigger person and feel ease, calm, and endless love for everyone.
Anyway, I finally escaped the dark holes of hell, which was the corporate environment, gave up smoking and drinking, and went on the first of many detoxes, some more wild and interesting than others, many bizarre and at times crazy healing adventures. But with each step forward, I learnt more about what I needed and, at the same time, what my skin needed. During one of the calmer retreats I enjoyed, I met many lovely vegan individuals. I was a vegetarian at the time, so I was more socially acceptable to them than I am today. It intrigued me to no end how they were so dedicated and filled with well-meaning vitriol about what they put in their bodies, yet had absolutely no thoughts about what they were putting on their bodies.
The Muddy Waters of Natural Skincare
I have said this many times, and I am sure I will say it many more times: the natural skincare world is a space of very muddy and murky waters. There is a significant lack of clarity for a multitude of reasons, some valid and some just rubbish. So I have learnt to find my own clarity and direction, not always based purely on any one set of principles, but on my inner sense of self and reasoning. For example, Charlotte Gerson, known for her promotion of the Gerson Therapy – a dietary therapy for cancer and other illnesses, considered alternative – stated that everything you put on your skin enters your bloodstream. If you then go and read the science and research that abound in the skincare industry, this is considered an oversimplification and not a valid perspective. I have heard many times that you can't argue with science, but the whole point of science is that it is self-correcting, and that raising questions and re-examining the facts is, in fact, essential. So while I don't intend to argue with science, I will constantly question the outcomes if they do not sit well with me.
Why I Avoid Petroleum-Derived Ingredients
My absolute favourite pet peeve is petroleum-derived products, which are ubiquitous in skincare: lip balms, baby care, moisturisers, body lotions, haircare, make-up removers, and the list goes on. When petroleum-derived ingredients were first used, they were less refined, and there were no rigorous testing and safety protocols in place as there are today. Highly refined petrolatum and mineral oils are widely used because they have excellent occlusive properties and are relatively inexpensive. However, concerns persist about possible contamination with polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs), some of which are known carcinogens. Here comes the crunch: depending on which regulatory body is adhered to during the refinement process, different standards of purity and different PAH limits are applied, and that, my friend, is where you lose me. Firstly, I don't want any product with PAHs or other questionable properties, and secondly, I don't want to use a skincare product with ingredients where regulatory bodies agree to differ on their standards for purification or safety, no matter how safe the science says it is.
How Your Skin Works: A Quick Overview
The skin is the largest organ of the body and one of the most complex. The skin is made up of three main layers: the epidermis, the outermost layer, whose function is barrier and protection; the dermis, the middle layer, made up of collagen, elastin, blood vessels and nerves; and the hypodermis, the deepest layer, whose function is cushioning and insulation. The epidermis consists of five distinct layers, with the outermost being the stratum corneum, which serves as the skin's primary barrier to external elements.
Skin Absorption vs Penetration: What’s the Difference?
When looking at how science understands our skin and its permeability, there are two distinct ways skincare products can move into the skin: penetration and absorption. The skin serves as a barrier, and its primary role is to protect the human body from the external environment; the stratum corneum primarily fulfils this role, preventing different substances from penetrating deeply into the skin. In dermatology, pharmacology and cosmetic science, the distinction between penetration and absorption is crucial. Penetration refers to the movement of a product through the outer layers of the skin, whereas absorption occurs when a product crosses the skin barrier and enters the bloodstream. Using this definition, I read ingredient lists to make sure products penetrate my skin, and I steer clear of any ingredients or products that claim deeper absorption.
How Can Chemicals Be Absorbed Through Your Skin?
A number of factors influence how far an ingredient travels: molecular size, solubility, concentration, product formulation, skin condition, and the area of skin where the product is applied. Note that the skin on the face is more permeable than other areas of the body. Ultimately, most skincare products are designed to work on the outer layers of the skin, specifically the epidermis, to provide protection and hydration and to enhance the skin's appearance. In essence, skincare products are formulated to penetrate the skin, not to be absorbed into the bloodstream. However, there is always the possibility that some chemicals or synthetic ingredients, such as certain preservatives, can be absorbed into the bloodstream and, in turn, have an adverse effect. And because there is a plethora of synthetic ingredients that are cheaper and easier to use, in most cases they are the first choice.
Does Everything You Put on Your Skin Enter Your Bloodstream?
No, not everything you put on your skin enters your bloodstream.To sum it all up, saying that everything you put on your skin enters your bloodstream is not 100 per cent accurate. Still, it is not entirely false either; as usual, it's a nuanced and multilayered discussion that each of us must explore to reach our own satisfactory conclusions. For me, I am very clear: if a product even suggests it absorbs and works in my skin, then I am out!